Monthly Archives: March 2014

Tea Tasting

Several boxes of tea samples where waiting for me this morning, and I found my tasting spoon. May be it is just me that gets like this, but tea tasting is just not right if I don’t have my spoon.

Today was a really good tasting day. Highlights include:

Yuan Shan Yin Zhen

An speciality from the Hunan province. Yellow Silver Needles. Which had a really interesting depth of flavours. It takes a lot of tea buds to make and is at the higher end of the tea price spectrum.

Next was a batch of oolongs

oolongs

All of which were very different colours in the cup. All of which were delicious in different ways. There was one from Nepal, one from Indonesia, China, Formosa and Thailand. All of which were delicious.

Tai Ping Hou Kui

I think this has to be one of the most visual teas I have come across. Looks amazing and tasted very interesting, with clean soft green notes, and a smokiness which smoothed the flavours together. Not an everyday green tea, but certainly would make a great end to a meal or be an afternoon highlight.

Last but not least was this tea,

Wild Tea Buds

Yunnan Wild Tea buds. These are harvested from wild tea trees. It does not look very interesting in the cup, the liqour is just a few shade away from looking like water. However it is packed with flavour yet light and clean and having just had a second cup cold would bf fabulous in the summer chilled. This is definitely one of my new favourite teas.

Now I just need to work out how I am going to get all these lovely new teas in the building!

Tea Heroes – Sir Thomas Lipton Part Seven

Part 7. The end of the road for Sir Thomas, but not for Lipton

In our last Newsletter, we left Sir Thomas busily contributing to the war effort and Shamrock IV, built in 1914, safe in her wartime berth in Brooklyn. The Lipton Company prospered during the war as Sir Thomas maintained his usual high public profile, tirelessly campaigning and fund raising around the country for the Tank Bank, which built thousands of the new-fangled machines that helped shorten hostilities. Despite wartime food rationing, Lipton managed to return dividends to shareholders at pre-war levels.

Lipton fully intended to continue his quest for the America’s Cup. He joked with reporters that he “had to drink his tea from a saucer” as he was unable “to lift the cup”. In 1920, the first race of the post war series lined the snub-nosed, green-hulled Shamrock IV against the American yacht Resolute. Tens of thousands of spectators took to the water to watch the race amidst a media circus; reporters chased the yachts in a US Navy airship, and events were transmitted across the Atlantic within minutes by “wire-photo” – an early form of fax. The rules required that Resolute be allowed a seven minute start on Shamrock IV due to the latter’s larger sail area. Nevertheless, Shamrock won the race, mainly due to Resolute breaking a mainsail halyard. Characteristically, Sir Thomas refused to celebrate a victory based on an accident. But to wild acclaim, even from Americans, Lipton also won the second race, finishing nine minutes ahead, or twominutes with the handicap. To take home the Cup however, Shamrock IV needed a third win – and in this race, though pipping Resolute by half a minute, the result went to Resolute on the handicap, as did the fourth race. With a decider to sail for, the fifth race was postponed by the judges due to rough weather – which Shamrock IV was built for. Next day, extreme calm favoured Resolute and she won convincingly. This was the closest Lipton, or indeed anyone, had so far come to wresting the Cup from America. But the Americans loved his sportsmanship, and in the 3 days after the final race, 35,000 people flocked to visit Shamrock IV in dock.

Lipton was to mount just one more challenge for the elusive Cup. The keel of Shamrock V was laid in 1929 to the new J-class rules hammered out after years of negotiation on America’s Cup yacht design. Shamrock V was a fast and graceful vessel but the US defender Enterprise incorporated latest aircraft technology and ergonomics into its build, and obsessive man management into its crewing. Despite what seemed to be the entire US nation willing Lipton to win, the races went in favour of Enterprise. Film star Will Rogers, in his weekly newspaper column, urged Enterprise’s captain, Mike Vanderbilt, to give Lipton a win “if Vanderbilt wants to make himself an American hero.” But Vanderbilt was driven by competition rather than by popularity – and Shamrock V was well defeated. A wave of emotion swept America, which had turned to sport to relieve the ache of the Great Depression. Many Americans argued for the Cup to be presented to Sir Thomas anyway. Will Rogers called for a loving cup to mark Lipton’s five unsuccessful events. Franklin D Roosevelt – then a State Governor – sent a donation with the message “Sir Thomas and his good sportsmanship are a lesson to every American.” Silver miners in Utah sent 25kg of silver which was used by Tiffany’s to form the base for a solid gold loving cup – the Lipton Trophy. New York Mayor Jimmy Walker suggested the inscription: “To possibly the world’s worst yacht builder, but absolutely the world’s most cheerful loser.” Later that year, in New York’s City Hall, Sir Thomas, with uncharacteristic tears, received the trophy with accolades from Mayor Walker. He was now 82 years old.

Although Lipton had captained his company well during the war years and soon afterwards returned good dividends for shareholders, the commercial waters had become choppy by the mid-1920s. The chain of 500 Lipton shops that had before seen no real competition were now facing new rivals: Sainsbury’s, Home and Colonial, David Greig’s and Maypole were fast becoming household names. Sir Thomas Lipton, whose autocratic methods had worked well in building the company, could not adjust to the rules of corporate management – he had no tolerance for less than perfect and was often arbitrary in his decisions. Lipton was Managing Director and still the largest shareholder but despite that, the Lipton Ltd annual meeting of 1926 was stormy: his fellow directors forced him out of control by promoting him sideways to the ineffectual position of “Life President and Chairman”. Lipton resisted retirement for six months but finally agreed to depart, having negotiated sale of his shares to the Van den Burgh group for a seven figure termination fee that would drop the jaw of even a modern banker.

Thereafter Sir Thomas concentrated on his wholly-owned American companies, managing them in his accustomed style. His office was at the top of the huge Lipton warehouse on the Hudson River at Hoboken, New Jersey. This had a car-sized lift and Sir Thomas would be chauffeur driven into the lift and whisked to his office, stepping out of his car and straight to his desk. It was from this office in 1930 that he masterminded his last challenge for the America’s Cup.

Sir Thomas died at home from a respiratory infection in the summer of 1931 just eight months after receiving the golden loving cup from his American admirers. He bequeathed Osridge, his London home of fifty years, to be used as a retirement home for nurses. His 84 volume scrapbook of press cuttings and photographs recording his amazing life, his yachting trophies, and the remains of his fortune – almost a million pounds – he donated to the sick and poor of Glasgow. The gold Lipton Trophy loving cup he deeded back to the New York Yacht Club.

His iconic name lives on in the tea brand that globally still outsells all others, yet it is not retailed in the UK. How can that be?

The chain of Lipton grocery stores of UK Lipton Ltd were merged in 1929 with Home and Colonial Stores to form a 3,000 shop chain of grocers and tea merchants. Home and Colonial traded until 1961 when, to reflect the passing of the British Empire, it rebranded itself as Allied Suppliers. The Lipton store name continued in the UK as a small town supermarket chain until it was acquired first by the Cavenham Group in 1972, and then the Argyle Group in 1982 who rebranded Lipton stores as Presto when Argyle merged with Safeway UK.

Tea Heroes – Sir Thomas Lipton Part Six

Part 6. Lipton woos high society

Tommy Lipton, sprung from Scottish Irish stock knew how to tell a good joke and an intriguing story. Edward Prince of Wales was not much of a conversationalist and sought out companions who could readily amuse him; a woman must be beautiful and amusing, a man rich and amusing. Lipton the man was both and an ideal companion – twinkling eyed Irish humour, devoid of class consciousness, his own master all his life, a millionaire who had never owed a penny, no chip on his shoulder – and full of lively charm. Added to this Lipton came with no encumbrances; no skeletons in his cupboard. He had no wife, no divorce, no relatives and no old friends. He was rich, he was friendly, a raconteur, good company and generous, and as he was beginning to show through his ocean racing, a “jolly good sport”.

DSCF1516

Friendship with Bertie gave him open invitations to Buckingham Palace and Balmoral, Sandringham and Windsor, and the royal yacht at Cowes. He also became a friend of Princess Henry of Battenberg, ex Empress Eugenie, the King of Italy and Alfonso of Spain – who proposed to Princess Ena aboard Lipton’s steam yacht Erin. Lipton routinely put the Erin at the disposal of his royal and titled friends for cruises and parties, high jinks and trysts. Lipton as a favour to the Prince of Wales discretely created a job in his American business for George Keppel, husband of Bertie’s last and most glamorous mistress, Mrs Alice Keppel, so effectively providing her with an income and keeping her husband safely out of England. Thus, as friend and confidant of the Prince and subsequently the King, and through his business connections, Sir Thomas enjoyed the cream of English and American society throughout the remarkable Edwardian era.

Nevertheless, the Grocer did not let his business slide. His UK company paid shareholders good yearly dividends of 15% and he continued to expand his US business with shrewd dealings that impressed even the hard-nosed Americans. One deal in the Chicago stockyards where Lipton had cornered the pork futures market made him a cool $300,000. A local newspaper printed “Sir Thomas, you’re a bird. You don’t roar when we beat your sailboat, so we won’t chew the rag when you get even in a commercial way”. Lipton took a 20 year lease on a large six storey property in New York that became his US headquarters. It was to house his first complete tea packing plant there and became a launching pad for similar operations across the country. The Thomas J Lipton & Co business in America, unlike Lipton Ltd in the UK, remained under his sole control and all its profits were his own wealth.

At home Lipton was however already planning another ocean racing bid and soon launched Shamrock II as the challenger for the 1901 America’s Cup. Lipton lavishly entertained celebrities aboard the Erin and Alice Keppel was his hostess. Socialite Mrs Dana Gibson wrote to a friend “I took a real fancy to Lipton. He is so good natured and such a boy.” Columbia beat Shamrock II in all three races, but narrowly, in the total of ninety miles there was only three and a half minutes between their times.

Undaunted, and reminding listeners that “the shamrock has three leaves” Lipton soon laid the keel of Shamrock III for the 1903 series. At 14,000 square feet of sail she was to be his fastest boat yet, and the most expensive. Before the first race Sir Thomas lunched with President Theodore Roosevelt at the White House and acted as judge in a beauty contest – cleverly avoiding making a final choice (and thereby increasing his admirers) by saying of the final two contenders “It’s impossible for me to arrive at a decision as to which is the more beautiful lady – the one is perfectly charming, while the other is delightfully bewitching.” and presented each with a small golden shamrock. Unfortunately the race went badly for Shamrock III with Reliance easily winning every heat, but Lipton though privately deeply disappointed, took defeat lightly in public – where he jokingly complained that he had to drink his tea from a saucer as he was “unable to lift the cup.”

The death from pneumonia of Edward VII in 1910 marked the end of a glorious era – auspicious display, gaiety and frivolity. His son, now George V, was a different man and unlikely to surround himself with men of commerce such as the Rothschilds, the Sassoons, and Sir Thomas. Lipton however continued to serve his former royal friend Bertie by inviting Alice Keppel to stay at Dambatenne Estate in Ceylon as a refuge from publicity. Although Alexandra had invited his mistress to see Edward as he lay dying she was no longer welcome after his death. Mrs Keppel and her daughter Violet stayed in Dambatenne for three months while the press interest declined. Violet wrote later: “I shared a room with a tame snake and a wild governess.”

In the seven years since the inglorious rout of Shamrock III Lipton had taken up ocean racing with a vengeance and very successfully performed at English regattas and abroad. In 1910 he won six cups which were presented to him by Kaiser Wilhelm at the Kiel Regatta – and he had the Kaiser, noted for his ill humour, roaring with laughter over stories of his Glasgow youth. Diplomats were stunned at Lipton’s ability to put people at their ease but Lipton was now 60 and was beginning to be at odds with British politics. He felt that, unlike the USA, Britain’s prosperity was dependant on loans (even then!) and that she had imports far outweighing her exports. Lipton was starting to think more as an American as the First World War began.

Shamrock IV was built in early 1914 and was towed by Erin to Bermuda and thence to her wartime berth in Brooklyn. The Erin was painted white with a large red cross and kitted out as a hospital ship. In Yugoslavia she came under enemy fire, with Lipton on the bridge. Lipton’s presence in Serbia, bringing in a hundred doctors and nurses plus medical supplies to fight typhus, had through the publicity he inevitably attracted, the result of drawing public attention and funding to aid the appalling conditions in Serbia. Lipton was made a Grand Commander of the Order of St Sava and dubbed by the people “Tchika (Uncle) Tom”. The Erin was less successful – requisitioned and in the hands of the Admiralty she was renamed the Argusa – and was in 1916 sunk by a U-boat in the Mediterranean, steaming to help a torpedoed minesweeper, the Nasturtium. Six of Lipton’s former crew now serving on the Argusa were killed.

Next Part – Lipton’s later years – another two Shamrocks race for the America’s Cup – and the foundations are laid for a tea company that 100 years on still sells more packed tea than any other.

Tea Heroes – Sir Thomas Lipton Part Five

Reclusive and work obsessed though Lipton may have been in his earlier life, his knighthood made him very much persona grata in the best of England’s drawing rooms. At leisure, Sir Thomas had a quick wit and was an excellent raconteur. Introduced through his charity contact with Alexandra, the Princess of Wales, his natural charm endeared him to Queen Victoria’s wayward son, Bertie. Soon his life was transformed: from diligent daily toil at the office, to high society parties, ocean going yachts, and endless newspaper gossip columns. To appreciate how a working man, even a recently knighted one, could metamorphose into the friend of princes and the nobility one must first know that, after a lifetime of building and running his grocery empire as a sole proprietor, in 1898 Lipton unaccountably floated his company. The flotation was accomplished in typical Lipton style: the resultant frenzied buying of shares was dubbed by the London Evening News ‘The Lipton Scramble.’ Cleverly managed publicity and the choice of the eccentric dandy but brilliant broker Panmure Gordon resulted in the sale of the business for two and a half million pounds. Equal today to a fortune of £150 million.

While he retained nominal control of Thomas J Lipton Ltd., the transition from sole personal ownership to working on behalf of shareholders through the medium of a board of directors was an uneasy one for Lipton the entrepreneur. Now however, on his own merit he was fabulously rich, and had no pressing need to continually plough his hard won profits back into the business. Who could be surprised that, like many a lottery jackpot winner, his new found wealth would bring about a profound change in behaviour? Perhaps today we might say a ‘mid-life crisis.’ Sir Thomas was 50 years old and had built his business for 33 years – long years where his sole concern was to promote his company. Now that it was publicly owned and managed by his fellow directors, his skills turned to publicising Sir Thomas Lipton the man.

Lipton’s first foray into well-heeled society was to enter a yacht in competition for the America’s Cup. This had been contended since 1851 when a US built yacht, the America, sailed to England and challenged fifteen British yachts of the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes for a prize of 110 guineas and a cup. The America thrashed the British boats, sailing 8 miles ahead at one stage, and finally winning by 24 minutes with only three British yachts completing the course. Taking home the prize money and the cup, the latter was presented to the New York Yacht Club as a challenge trophy – the America’s Cup.

The green hulled Shamrock, Sir Thomas’s first America’s Cup challenger, was built on the Thames at Millwall by Scottish yacht builder William Fife. Ever the patriot, Lipton had wanted her to be built by Harland and Wolff in Belfast but their expertise was with steel hulled steam ships. The guideline budget was agreed at £100,000 – this would be £10 million today – and ultimately she would cost Sir Thomas double this price before she crossed the Atlantic. Fife designed a boat that pushed hull and sail design to the limits of contemporary technology. A gaff-rigged cutter, she had a 130 foot steel mast and was 190 feet from bowsprit to stern. While she displaced only 156 tonnes her sail area was 14,000 square feet – compare that to the 6,000 that the original America carried – and her main sails were woven from Egyptian cotton and silk, with a massive pure silk spinnaker.

Edward, Prince of Wales, who was commodore of the Royal Yacht Squadron and owner of the sleek royal yacht Britannia, took a keen interest in Lipton’s project and had undoubtedly backed his challenge which had to be formally issued through the Royal Yacht Squadron. Just two weeks after the American boat Columbia was launched, Prince Edward visited the Thames side shipyard to urge the builders to hasten completion. Columbia was owned by Nathanael Herreshoff, the designer of the previous Valkyrie defenders, but he was a dour, difficult man and no hero for the US press who went overboard in enthusiasm for Sir Thomas. His rags to riches history, his Irish forbears, even the simple patriotic name of his boat, after the difficult classical names of previous English contenders – Valkyrie, Galatea, Livonia and Atalanta – all endeared him to the common man on both sides of the pond.

Of course, none of this publicity did any harm to the grocery sales of Thomas J Lipton, Ltd., and for the while shareholders were content with the new hobby of their managing director. Come October 4th, 1899 and Shamrock was sailing well ahead when the first heat ran out of time in a flat calm, four miles from the finish. The second heat too was abandoned for lack of wind. The next attempt coincided with a thick fog shrouding the 30 mile course off Sandy Hook, New Jersey, and was again abandoned. Lipton declared encouragingly to the despairing press: ‘I can only say, that either boat may win.’ When the weather broke unexpectedly the second heat was run in a stiff breeze and Columbia finished a clear two miles ahead of Shamrock. The third race commenced next day in a bitter 15 to 20 knot north wind and just five minutes after the starting gun Shamrock’s topmast failed, bringing down spars, rigging and sail. Columbia sailed ahead and was declared the winner. In the next race the two boats were evenly matched but Columbia once more came in ahead of Shamrock and Lipton conceded defeat. ‘The better boat has won, but I have in mind to challenge again.’ Thus the yachting obsession of recently wealthy Sir Thomas Lipton commenced. Around eighty years later another notable ocean racer, British Prime Minister Ted Heath, neatly summed up the sport: ‘It’s like standing under a cold shower tearing up five-pound notes.’

Next Part – Celebrity intensifies at home and abroad; some Royal intrigue; and another three Shamrocks are launched as Lipton’s America’s Cup contenders.